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Violette De Bordeaux Fig tree Cuttings, 2 Cuttings, Fig cuttings, Zone 5 to 10
Black fig with dark purple fruit, dark red flesh and rich flavor. It is a natural dwarf tree that grows 6-10 feet tall, well adapted for container culture or small spaces.The leaves of the Violette De Bordeaux are dramatic, with long slender fingers.
It produces two crops a year. Early crop is pear shaped with a thick, tapering neck; main crop is variable, often without neck. Good fresh or dried. 100 chill hrs.
Self-fruitful.
Zone 5 to 10.
This is for two (2) cuttings.
Here is some information on rooting metheods:
#1 Rooting Method:
Take dormant hardwood cuttings and wrap in loosely damp paper towel or newspaper, covering the entire cutting except the bottom 1/2". This allows the bottom end to "callus", which helps to prevent rot, when rooting. Place in a plastic Ziploc bag.
Set in a warm place, with a temp of 70-80 degrees F (not in the sun or next to a heat source). Check once a day for signs of mold and air out the cuttings. Re-moisten the paper if necessary (though this is not usually needed if the bag is sealed). Under the conditions of warmth and humidity, roots will develop, starting as small white "bumps" and gradually growing into longer roots.
When there is good development of roots, unwrap carefully, and pot. Place about 1/2' coarse, well-wetted Vermiculite in the bottom of the cup, insert the cutting, and fill the cup with coarse, well-wetted Vermiculite. Place the cuttings in a container ( use a plastic storage box), with a wire rack or cover with a 2 liter plastic soda bottle cap off, to create a greenhouse effect. Leave it open for fresh air periodically, to avoid mold. Water as necessary. The higher humidity environment requires much less frequent watering, which yields better moisture control in the root zone and leads to less rotting of the cuttings.
The most important is providing humidity, without keeping the root zone overly wet, warmth and check it once a day to give it fresh air.
Method 2 Plant the cuttings in a pot of a mix of 3 parts perlite to 1 part peat, by volume. Set the pot on a heat mat set to 85 degrees F, in a cool area, or even outdoors in a protected area and cover the cuttings with a plastic bag to hold the moisture. This heats the root zone and encourages root growth, but the top of the cuttings, being in cool air, will not push buds as readily. The idea is to get roots before buds push too much so there is an existing root system to support the new growth when it appears. Rooting occurs in one to two weeks in most cases. See sources for a company that sells heat mats. I have used a regular heating pad but they are not all alike and you must be sure to check the temperature of the soil, should be no more than 85 degrees.
Method 3 Plant the cuttings in a one gallon black pot of the 3:1 perlite-peat mix and set it in a sunny location where the pot can be warmed by the sun. The pot should be no larger than one gallon as the warming effect of the sun will penetrate a larger pot too slowly. Avoid excess watering as that will cool the mix and slow rooting. This is a slower method, often taking as much as a month, and the buds will often start to grow before the roots are formed, but it works well enough for home use.
It produces two crops a year. Early crop is pear shaped with a thick, tapering neck; main crop is variable, often without neck. Good fresh or dried. 100 chill hrs.
Self-fruitful.
Zone 5 to 10.
This is for two (2) cuttings.
Here is some information on rooting metheods:
#1 Rooting Method:
Take dormant hardwood cuttings and wrap in loosely damp paper towel or newspaper, covering the entire cutting except the bottom 1/2". This allows the bottom end to "callus", which helps to prevent rot, when rooting. Place in a plastic Ziploc bag.
Set in a warm place, with a temp of 70-80 degrees F (not in the sun or next to a heat source). Check once a day for signs of mold and air out the cuttings. Re-moisten the paper if necessary (though this is not usually needed if the bag is sealed). Under the conditions of warmth and humidity, roots will develop, starting as small white "bumps" and gradually growing into longer roots.
When there is good development of roots, unwrap carefully, and pot. Place about 1/2' coarse, well-wetted Vermiculite in the bottom of the cup, insert the cutting, and fill the cup with coarse, well-wetted Vermiculite. Place the cuttings in a container ( use a plastic storage box), with a wire rack or cover with a 2 liter plastic soda bottle cap off, to create a greenhouse effect. Leave it open for fresh air periodically, to avoid mold. Water as necessary. The higher humidity environment requires much less frequent watering, which yields better moisture control in the root zone and leads to less rotting of the cuttings.
The most important is providing humidity, without keeping the root zone overly wet, warmth and check it once a day to give it fresh air.
Method 2 Plant the cuttings in a pot of a mix of 3 parts perlite to 1 part peat, by volume. Set the pot on a heat mat set to 85 degrees F, in a cool area, or even outdoors in a protected area and cover the cuttings with a plastic bag to hold the moisture. This heats the root zone and encourages root growth, but the top of the cuttings, being in cool air, will not push buds as readily. The idea is to get roots before buds push too much so there is an existing root system to support the new growth when it appears. Rooting occurs in one to two weeks in most cases. See sources for a company that sells heat mats. I have used a regular heating pad but they are not all alike and you must be sure to check the temperature of the soil, should be no more than 85 degrees.
Method 3 Plant the cuttings in a one gallon black pot of the 3:1 perlite-peat mix and set it in a sunny location where the pot can be warmed by the sun. The pot should be no larger than one gallon as the warming effect of the sun will penetrate a larger pot too slowly. Avoid excess watering as that will cool the mix and slow rooting. This is a slower method, often taking as much as a month, and the buds will often start to grow before the roots are formed, but it works well enough for home use.
